Today, we’re doing a day trip from Patzcuaro to poke around yet another Pueblo Magico by the endlessly enjoyable name of Tzintzuntzan (pronounced: Seen-Soon-Sahn).
We hear there are some pyramids there, as well as a former monastery worth seeing—not to mention some unique regional food offerings.
After hanging out on the Mexican Coast for three months, the Michoacan highlands have been a big change for us. Of course, we’re always up for more beach time. But hanging out in Mexican beach towns can get a bit repetitive, particularly if you’ve spent the last four years like we have living within a couple of miles of the ocean.
What the highlands lack in sand and surf they make up for in historical and culture attractions (and oftentimes scenic attractions as well). And the Lake Patzcuaro area where we are now is full of them.
We’ve explored urban waterfalls and hiked to a church encased in lava fields in and around Uruapan. We’ve explored the Pueblo Magico of Patzcuaro in all its red-and-white Spanish-colonial grandeur. And taken a boat to the Island of Janitzio to scale its iconic 13-story statue.
But there’s still much more to explore within a two-hour radius here—more than we could possibly hope to do in the span of a few weeks—and Tzintzuntzan is next up on our list.
Road School & RV Projects
But first, some highlights from the past few days in Patzcuaro.
Another morning at Rancho La Mesa. There is something oddly relaxing about starting your day with chilled-out burros at your doorstep.
Not exactly your typical kindergarten classroom.
During independent school time, the boys take turns in the beach chair behind the RV to work on their reading and work on a few home school apps.
In a previous post, I talked about our reasons for parking the RV at an angle. It’s been working really well for us, taking full advantage of the awesome view here.
The only notable downside is that it faces the awning directly into the prevailing wind, which really whips up in the afternoon here (as you might imagine being on a plateau overlooking a lake).
Usually the flapper stoppers are enough to keep the fabric from luffing too much, but a couple big gusts are enough to cause concern.
That means that every time we leave the RV, I have to bring the awning in (and take it out again for the shade). Not ideal, but it’s a small price to pay for having the “party side” of the rig face the view.
Lori really wanted to get this shot. The beer was really good, but unfortunately, those avocados never ripened. If only we had gotten them in the Avocado Capital of the World instead of down the street at Soriana.
I’ve been really loving scratching projects off my list. This has been an ideal place for that.
The bumper was looking pretty rough with lots of spots of bare metal showing, so I wanted to be sure to seal it up before the rainy season.
While I was at it, I took some touch-up paint to the body, cleaned the coils of the heat pump roof unit, lubricated the awning tracks, and a bunch of other little things.
There’s plenty more to do, but a good start.
Day Trip to Tzintzuntzan Pueblo Magico
We grabbed a quick breakfast around the main plaza Patzcuaro, then made our way to the Tzintzuntzan-bound Combis.
Ex-Franciscan Monastery of Santa Ana
You wouldn’t know it today just walking around town, but Tzintzuntzan was once the capital of the Purépecha Empire for about a hundred years until the Spanish took the city in the mid-16th century. Under the Spanish, it was the first capital of the State of Michoacan until it was relocated to Patzcuaro a decade later.
There’s little left from the Purépecha period with the exception of the pyramids (which we’ll get to later). In contrast, quite a bit has survived from the Spanish era—most notably, the former Franciscan monastery of Santa Ana.
From the main road, it’s almost impossible to see the sprawling grounds of an ex-monastery. Just behind the Artisan Market, there’s a gate that leads into the vast wooded olive grove of Don Vasco de Quiroga, framed by two churches—the Temple of Solitude and the Temple of San Francisco.
Construction of the monastery (some literature refers to it as a convent, but I think it’s a translation issue) began with the Templo de San Francisco in the 16th century, and continued through much of the 17th century.
The grounds and artwork are remarkably well-preserved, having benefited from extensive restoration about 20 years ago.
The toilets are some of the nicest I’ve seen in any museum in Mexico.
The entire monastery is so well preserved and restored, you really do get a sense of what daily life might have been like for the Franciscan monks residing here some 400 years ago.
Tzintzuntzan Pueblo Magico
Tzintzuntzan has been designated a Pueblo Magico by the Mexican government, mostly owing to its significance during the Purépecha period, its pyramid archeological site, and well-preserved ex-monastery.
As for the rest of the town, well, small portions are charming enough for a short stroll, but its a far cry from the likes of Patzcuaro.
Tzintzuntzan doesn’t feel like a destination in itself, but rather a place to be enjoyed on a day trip from Patzcuaro. Heck, you can practically walk the entire town in 30 minutes.
With regards to the town, itself, Avenida Las Yácatas with its diminutive mirador are worth a stroll. If you choose to walk directly from the monastery to the pyramids, you’ll likely find yourself here, anyway.
The town of Tzintzuntzan is also known for its unique cuisine, but we’ll also get to that a bit later.
Tzintzuntzan Archeological Zone
The Tzintzuntzan yácatas (semi-circular pyramids) are not inherently impressive on the surface. You can try and imagine what the site might have looked like in its heyday, but this certainly isn’t Teotihuacan.
With that said, the grounds are still worth a visit for the excellent museum, impressive views, and structures that do remain. If you do visit, be sure to ask for a self-guided tour placard in English (they hide them).
It’s my understanding that the yácata structures we see today aren’t that old, likely dating to the time when Tzintzuntzan was the Purépecha capital. However, they are constructed over much older, more traditional pyramids.
What perhaps makes the town of Tzintzuntzan so fascinating is that it’s possible to experience the remnants of several hundred years of history—from the Purépecha Empire and Spanish colonial period to the present day—in just under a mile.
Today, Tzintzuntzan is known for its artisan woodworking shops and its delicious cuisine. There are several places in town to sample the region’s specialties.
We had lunch at Cocina Tradicional La Casa de Blanca and highly recommend it. The menu is simple and very reasonable. The Uchepos, Churipos, and Corundas were fantastic.
