Janitzio Island is one of those places that frequently pops up on postcards and tourism marketing materials for Central Mexico. It’s hard to believe such a place exists in North America in the 21st century—a small island in the middle of a highlands lake completely covered in red-roofed residences, shops, and churches, and topped by a distinctive 130-foot statue.
About 2,300 people live on Isla de Janitzio, which measures just 55 acres, giving the island a population density of 27,034 people per square mile—three times that of Mexico City.
For the past week, we’ve been admiring this exotic and picturesque place through a smoky haze from high up on a plateau overlooking the city and lake of Patzcuaro. Today, we’re hopping a boat to Janitzio Island to finally get a better look.
Getting to Janitzio Island
For us, this day trip involves a ten minute walk down to the Combi stop, a 30-minute ride on the Yellow line to the main plaza (Plaza Vasco de Quiroga), another 40-minute Combi ride to the docks, and a 45-minute ferry boat to the island (repeat in reverse order for the return journey).
We’re able to take a 6A “Lago” Combi from the main plaza to Preparatoria Federal Felipe Carrillo Puerto, where we get off and walk the remainder of the way to the Muelle General.
On our way to the docks, we stopped for breakfast at Tiendita Verde.
Artisan meats and cheeses, and a large outdoor restaurant looking out onto an expansive green space with playground.
It’s not every day that we get to ride a lake boat to an island. It’s also not everyday that we see a group of police officers trying to cajole a horse onto one of the boats, which is what’s going on in the picture above. We wait for about 20 minutes for an available boat before boarding.
Lake levels are at historic lows right now. The rainy season, it seems, can’t come soon enough for those whose livelihoods are tied to the lake. We meet an American women at the muelle who made the trip down here from town just to see how low the water is.
The ride along the channel to the lake is excruciatingly slow due to the shallow waters. Bamboo polls demarcate where the channel has been dredged. We eye small wetlands birds standing in water up to their knees, just feet away from the boat. Not exactly an encouraging sign.
This being Mexico, the public ferry has live entertainment. A group of musicians boarded at the last minute and play for most of the journey, leaving just enough space for the boat captain (blue shirt, below) to barely see out the front.
As we near Janitzio Island, we pass a small group of fishermen in boats. Suddenly, as if on command, the nets come out—the famous butterfly nets for which this area’s known.
It’s a striking picture, framed by the island. Naturally, I start snapping away. All part of their plan, I would discover.
The front two boats immediately peel off and beeline it to the front of the ferry where we are sitting and demand money. I should have known better. These guys probably aren’t even real fishermen, which makes it all the more angering.
I stand my ground until they eventually move on. I’ll gladly give a tip to a talented street performer, but not one who pulls a fast one on me.
At last, we arrive at Isla de Janitzio.
Exploring Isla de Janitzio
We knew from a number of sources that Janitzio Island can get very hectic, particularly on the weekends. We’re here midweek at the cusp of rainy season and before school lets out. For the most part, crowds are fairly minimal for us today.
I didn’t realize the village on the island would be so attractive and well-organized. I was expecting narrow twisting alleyways, but not the paving stone paths, fresh paint, and concrete stairs that seem commonplace. There are also far more restaurants than I thought there would be, all comida típica, but I didn’t expect a ton of variety in that respect.
In the event the island fills up throughout the day, we thought it best to head directly to the main attraction: the Statue of José Maria Morelos.
This means making our way in a criss-cross fashion around the village, passing the town chapel, Iglesia de San Jerónimo.
Just past the chapel is perhaps Janitzio Island’s second most famous landmark: the Panteon de Janitzio.
Panteon de Janitzio
This cemetery is said to be the inspiration behind the one in the movie Coco.
In addition to being the final resting place for many local residents, it’s also the final resting place for pilgrims making their way to the island on candle-lit boats during Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead), which also happens to be Janitzio Island’s biggest festival of the year.
Onward (and upward) to the Morelos statue.
Perched on the highest point of the island, there’s no easy way to the Morelos Statue. It’s stairs, stairs, or ramps and stairs.
José Maria Morelos Statue
These statues and monuments always look far different up close than from a distance. It’s not apparent until you’re here that the statue is constructed of dozens upon dozens of dark grey cement bricks and white mortar, with even a handful of windows to let light in.
The best part of the statue, however, is that you get to go inside and climb the 130 vertical feet to the top of Morelos’ clenched fist.
On the way up, you’re treated to a seemingly endless spiral of murals by artist Ramón Alba depicting the life of Mexican Independence hero José Maria Morelos, for which the state of Michoacán’s capital is named.
When the statue and murals were completed in the 1930s, there wasn’t a whole lot else on the island. Much has changed on Isla de Janitzio in the past century, and the statue’s presence has had a lot to do with that.
There are several rules you must abide by when visiting, such as no touching the murals, no flash photography, no running, and no loud voices. We knew this last one would be a challenge for Riley, but he manages to pull it off. Fortunately, there are plenty of pictures to keep him engaged, even if some are a bit terrifying for a five-year-old.
It’s a bit of a hike to the tippy top, but we are rewarded with commanding views of Lake Patzcuaro and its other inhabited islands, of which Isla de Janitzio is the largest.
Below, is the view looking back towards Patzcuaro Town.
On the way out, we pass this Tiki Bar and couldn’t help ourselves.
Tourist trap, certainly. But how often do you get to grab a drink at a Tiki Bar at the highest point of an island at 7,000 feet above sea level?
Lori and I split a Michelada. A real Michelada with Clamato and lots of kick to it.
The Return Journey
We knew we reached our high point for the day, both literally and figuratively. That of course means stairs. Going down this time, at least.
On our way back to the ferry dock, we poke our heads into the few places that are open during Siesta hour. The Janitzio Chapel happens to be one of them.
We arrive back at the dock only to find we just missed a boat back to Patzcuaro. We’re the first ones on the next boat, but have to wait until this boat fills up. Just shy of an hour later, we’re on our way back to Muelle General.
On our way into the shallow channel, we pass a ferry going in the opposite direction that’s run aground. The water seem to be receding by the hour, it appears.
We slowly inch our way around the stranded boat only to find ourselves in the same predicament just minutes later. Riley looks on as if he knew this would happen all along.
Ten minutes of the captain revving the engine forward, then reverse, then forward again eventually pays off, and gliding into the docks right beside an airliner…
Just in time to make our way back during rush hour in bustling Patzcuaro.
A successful day trip to one-of-a-kind Janitzio Island, and definitely worth the time in our minds if you happen to find yourself in the area.
